Sell Pets Online
Selling or rehoming?
Most people who type "sell my dog" are not running a business. They are trying to find a good home for one animal and would like to recover something — the cost of neutering, the crate, the last vet bill — rather than turn a profit. That is a perfectly normal position and this guide is written for it.
It is worth being clear with yourself which one you are doing, because it changes how you write the advert. If the money genuinely does not matter and what you want is the right home, say so and set the price at zero or near it; you will get more enquiries and can afford to be choosy. If you need to recoup a real cost, name the figure and the reason — "£200, which covers her spay" reads far better than an unexplained number.
If you are giving the dog up because of a change in circumstances rather than because you want to sell, the language buyers respond to is different, and there is a companion guide for that at rehomepets.com.
Whether you need a licence
Selling your own dog privately is generally lawful. Selling dogs as a business is regulated, and the line is lower than most people assume.
- England. Anyone breeding three or more litters in a twelve-month period, or breeding and selling dogs commercially, needs a licence from their local council. Since 2020, puppies and kittens must be sold direct by the breeder — third-party commercial sales are banned. Scotland and Wales have comparable schemes with their own thresholds.
- United States. Rules vary by state and by city. A number of states regulate or license commercial breeders, and several cities restrict retail pet sales entirely. A handful also impose disclosure requirements or "puppy lemon laws" giving buyers rights if the animal turns out to be ill.
- Either way, misdescribing an animal's age, health or breed in an advert can amount to a consumer-protection breach even for a private seller.
This is general information, not legal advice, and the thresholds change. If you are selling more than the occasional animal, check with your local authority — in England and Wales that means your council's licensing team — before you advertise.
Paperwork and preparation
A dog with its records in order sells faster and to better buyers, because the people who ask for paperwork are the people who intend to look after it.
- Vaccination record, up to date, with the card or a printout from the practice.
- Microchip number, plus your login to the registry so you can transfer it on the day. Transferring the chip is a legal requirement in the UK and good practice everywhere.
- Worming and flea treatment dates.
- Neutering status. A neutered dog attracts a noticeably different set of enquiries — you stop hearing from people interested in breeding from it.
- Veterinary history, including anything ongoing. Disclose it. An undisclosed condition that surfaces a fortnight later is how sales turn into disputes.
- A written routine — food brand and amounts, walk schedule, commands known, how the dog behaves when left alone. Costs you ten minutes and materially improves the handover.
What to charge
This is the question everyone actually arrives with, and the honest answer is that for a private owner rehoming one adult dog, most listings sit somewhere between nothing and a few hundred.
Rather than guess, do this: search your own area within about fifty miles, filter to the same species, and look at what comparable dogs — same rough breed, age and neuter status — are actually listed at. That local figure is worth more than any national average, because pet prices vary enormously by region.
Then adjust for the things buyers price on:
| Factor | Effect on what you can ask |
|---|---|
| Age | Puppies command the most; interest drops steadily after about two years and again past eight |
| Neutered | Slightly lower price, but far better quality of enquiry |
| Vaccinated and chipped | Supports a higher figure and speeds the sale |
| Pedigree papers | Raises price for buyers who want them; irrelevant to most pet homes |
| Known behavioural issues | Lowers it, and should — but disclose anyway |
| Ongoing medical needs | Usually means listing at or near zero and finding the right person |
A price is a filter, not a safeguard. A higher figure removes casual enquiries, which saves you time. It does not stop anyone acquiring a dog for the wrong reasons — they simply pay it and treat it as a cost. What actually protects the animal is the screening in the section below.
List your dog in the app
Set your own price — including zero — and see what comparable dogs near you are listed at before you decide.
Free to download. Creating a listing needs a 7-day free trial or a subscription. Cancel anytime.
Where to list
| Route | Reach | Contact details private | Main drawback |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dedicated pet app | Good, and targeted | Yes | Smaller audience than the giants; you do the screening |
| Breed-specific groups | Small but knowledgeable | No | Group rules often restrict sales posts |
| Word of mouth, vet noticeboard | Very small | Yes | Slow, and awkward if it goes wrong |
| Facebook Marketplace | Largest | No | Animal sales breach its commerce policies and listings get pulled |
| Craigslist / general classifieds | Large | No | No account history; the most heavily targeted by scammers |
Most people do best listing in one dedicated place and telling everyone they know. Posting the same dog across five sites mainly multiplies the number of timewasters you have to filter.
Writing the listing
Photographs
Photographs decide whether anyone reads the words. Six to eight, taken outdoors in daylight or beside a window, no flash and no filters — heavy editing reads as concealment.
- One full-body shot standing side-on, so size and build are unambiguous.
- One head shot with the eyes in focus.
- One of the dog doing something ordinary — on a walk, asleep, being stroked.
- If it is good with children or other animals and you can photograph that safely, do.
The description
Write in specifics. Adjectives are invisible; details are not.
"Lovely friendly boy, great with everyone, needs a loving home. £300 ono."
"Four-year-old neutered lurcher, 22kg, chipped and fully vaccinated. Sleeps through the night on his bed in the kitchen, walks well on a harness, quiet indoors. Delighted by every person he meets, ignores cats, but cannot be let off lead — he will chase squirrels for a mile. Left alone four hours with no problem. Frightened of the vacuum. £200, which covers his neutering in March. Happy for you to meet him here."
Always include age, breed or best guess, weight, sex, neuter status, vaccination and chip status, how it is with children and other animals, how long it can be left, any medical or behavioural issue, your price and what it reflects, and why you are selling. Omitting the reason makes people assume the worst.
Screening buyers
Ask everyone the same questions and write the answers down so you can compare them properly.
- Who lives in the home, and how old are the children?
- What other animals do you have, and are they neutered and vaccinated?
- Do you own or rent? If renting, does your agreement allow dogs?
- Is the garden fenced, and how high?
- How many hours a day would the dog be alone, and where?
- Which vet would you register with?
- Have you owned a dog before? What happened to it?
- What would you do if it developed a health problem costing several thousand?
Ask for a vet reference. If a buyer has had dogs before, one call to their practice confirms those animals were registered, vaccinated and seen when they needed to be. It is free, takes five minutes, and is the single most reliable check available to a private seller.
The scams
Pet listings are targeted by a small, consistent set of frauds. Knowing the shape of them is most of the defence.
The overpayment
A buyer sends more than the asking price, says it was a mistake, and asks you to refund the difference. The original payment is later reversed by the bank or platform and you lose both the refund and, often, the dog. Never refund an overpayment. Return the whole amount and walk away.
The shipping agent
A buyer who cannot collect insists on their own courier. Once you agree, the "courier" demands payment for a crate, insurance, or temperature-controlled transport, sometimes repeatedly. The company does not exist. Sell to people who can collect in person.
Reversible payment methods
Cheques, transfers from unverified accounts, and "friends and family" payments on payment apps can all be clawed back after the animal has gone. So can some card payments. Cash counted in front of you at collection remains the safest method for a private sale.
The too-easy buyer
Someone who agrees the full price immediately, asks nothing about the dog, and wants to collect today is not a good buyer. Genuine homes ask questions.
Walk away from: refusal to collect in person, refusal of a home visit, wanting several animals, questions about breeding potential rather than temperament, an offer above asking price, insistence on a courier you did not choose, or pressure to complete today. You never owe anyone an explanation for saying no.
Payment and handover
- Meet in a neutral public place first, with someone else present. Watch how they behave around the dog.
- See where the dog will live before you agree anything. Refusal ends the conversation.
- Take payment in full at collection. Do not release the dog on a promise of a transfer landing later.
- Write a bill of sale. Both names and addresses, the dog's description, microchip number, price paid, what you disclosed about health and temperament, and the date. Both sign, both keep a copy. This protects you as much as the buyer.
- Transfer the microchip registration on the day. Do not leave it for later; while it is in your name you may still be treated as the keeper.
- Send the dog with its bed, current food, records and the written routine. An abrupt food change on top of a house move causes stomach upsets.
- Keep the goodbye short. Dogs read distress, and a drawn-out farewell makes the transition harder for them.
Frequently asked questions
Where can I sell my dog online?
A dedicated pet app is the usual choice because listings are searchable by breed and distance and your contact details stay private. Breed-specific groups reach knowledgeable buyers. General classified sites reach the most people but offer no account history and attract the most scams. Avoid any route that will not let you meet the buyer in person.
How much should I sell my dog for?
For a private owner rehoming one adult dog, most listings sit somewhere between nothing and a few hundred. Look at what comparable dogs of the same breed, age and neuter status are listed at within about fifty miles of you. A price near zero attracts far more enquiries but a much higher proportion of unsuitable ones.
How can I sell my dog fast?
Better photographs and a lower price move a listing faster than anything else. But speed and safety pull against each other — the buyers who commit within hours are rarely the ones who have thought it through. If you genuinely have to move quickly, contact a breed-specific rescue as well; they can sometimes place a dog within days.
Can I sell my dog for free?
You can list at zero, and many owners do. Avoid the exact phrase "free to a good home", though — it is specifically searched for by people acquiring animals to resell. Say instead that there is no fee but you require a home visit and references. That costs you nothing and changes who replies.
Do I need a licence to sell a dog?
Selling your own dog privately generally does not require one. Breeding and selling as a business does. In England anyone breeding three or more litters in a year, or selling dogs commercially, needs a council licence, and puppies must be sold direct by the breeder rather than through a third party. Rules differ across the US by state and city.
What paperwork do I need to sell a dog?
A vaccination record, the microchip number with access to transfer registration, worming and flea treatment dates, and any veterinary history. A short written bill of sale recording the price, what you disclosed and the date protects both sides.
