What cats are actually worth
There is a large gulf between a pedigree kitten and an adult moggy, and pretending otherwise wastes your time. Search listings within about fifty miles for the same type, age and neuter status.
| Factor | Effect |
|---|---|
| Kitten vs adult | The largest single difference; interest drops sharply after about a year |
| Pedigree with papers | Substantially higher, and buyers will ask to see them |
| Neutered | Slightly lower price, far better enquiries |
| Vaccinated, chipped, wormed | Supports a higher figure and speeds the sale |
| FIV/FeLV tested | Reassures buyers, particularly those with other cats |
| Senior or medical needs | Usually listed at or near zero to find the right person |
| Bonded pair | Lower per cat — they should go together |
Selling kittens — the rules
Do not let a kitten go before eight weeks. Kittens separated earlier miss critical socialisation with their mother and littermates, and in many places selling or transferring them younger is unlawful. Most buyers know this and will judge a listing that ignores it.
- First vaccinations and worming should be done, with the record to hand.
- Be honest about the mother and the litter, including any that did not survive and any health problems that appeared.
- Kittens sell fast, which is the risk. Speed removes the screening you would otherwise do. Do not accept the first person who offers the full price.
- If you are selling more than the occasional litter, check whether you would count as a breeder needing registration where you live — in England, third-party sales of kittens are banned and commercial breeders need a licence.
Preparing the cat
- Neutering, for adults. An unneutered cat attracts a noticeably worse set of enquiries.
- Vaccinations up to date, with the record.
- Microchip details current, plus access to transfer registration on the day.
- A vet check, particularly for older cats. Kidney disease, hyperthyroidism and dental problems are common past ten and often invisible at home. Knowing lets you disclose; discovering it after the sale is how disputes start.
- Write down food brand and feeding times, litter type, whether indoor-only, how she is with strangers, and what frightens her.
Writing the listing
Cats photograph badly and all look broadly alike in listings until a photo shows character. This is where most cat listings lose.
- Natural light, no flash — flash gives reflective eyes and puts buyers off.
- Get down to her level rather than shooting from standing.
- Six or so photos: a clear face shot, a full-body shot showing size and coat, and a few of her doing something ordinary.
- State age, sex, neuter status, vaccination and chip status, indoor or outdoor, and how she is with children, dogs and other cats.
- Disclose any medical condition or behaviour worth knowing.
- Give your price and what it covers, and say why you are selling.
"Can I sell my cat to PetSmart?"
No — and it is worth addressing because a lot of people search for it. Large pet retailers do not buy cats from the public. Most US chains stopped selling cats and dogs entirely and instead host adoption events for local shelters and rescues, which is a different thing: they place animals on behalf of a rescue rather than purchasing them from an owner.
Your realistic routes are a private listing, a breed-specific rescue, a local shelter, or word of mouth through your vet. If a retailer offers to take an animal from you for money, treat that as a warning sign rather than an opportunity.
Screening buyers and handover
- Who lives in the home, and how old are the children?
- Do you have other cats or dogs? Neutered and vaccinated? How would you introduce them?
- Do you own or rent, and does your agreement allow cats?
- Would she be indoor-only or have outdoor access? How close is the nearest busy road?
- Which vet would you register with?
- Have you had cats before, and what happened to them?
- What would you do if she needed treatment costing over a thousand?
An indoor cat given free outdoor access in a new area is genuinely at risk — she has no map of the territory and no experience of the traffic. If it matters to you, say so in the listing and write it into the sale note.
At handover: take payment in full at collection, transfer the microchip on the day, and send her in a secure carrier with her own unwashed bedding, litter tray, current litter and food. Tell the buyer to confine her to one quiet room for the first few days and let her emerge in her own time — most cats hide for two to seven days, and that is normal.
Frequently asked questions
How much can I sell my cat for?
A pedigree kitten with papers commands far more than an adult moggy, and prices vary a lot by region. Search comparable local listings for the same type, age and neuter status. Adult cats with medical needs are commonly listed at or near zero, because the aim is the right home rather than the highest bidder.
Can I sell my cat to PetSmart?
No. Large pet retailers do not buy cats from the public. Most stopped selling cats and dogs entirely and now host adoption events for local shelters instead, which places animals on a rescue’s behalf rather than buying them from owners. Your options are a private listing, a rescue, a shelter, or word of mouth.
How old should kittens be before I sell them?
At least eight weeks. Kittens separated earlier miss critical socialisation with their mother and littermates, and in many places transferring them younger is unlawful. First vaccinations and worming should also be done.
Can I sell my cat on Facebook?
Facebook’s commerce policies prohibit the sale of animals and Marketplace listings are removed, often with a strike against the account. Some local groups tolerate rehoming posts at the moderators’ discretion, but it is not a reliable route and offers no protection.
Should I sell bonded cats together?
Yes, if they genuinely are — grooming each other, sleeping in contact, seeking each other out. Separating a bonded pair commonly causes appetite loss, over-grooming and hiding in both. It lowers what you can ask per cat and it is still the right call.